I usually get up early, even when on vacation and once I opened the metal shutters that kept canal noise out while we slept and stepped out onto the balcony there was no chance that I would go back to bed and sleep some more. Further up the canal stood the Rialto Bridge in the dark and without one person on it (they were all asleep!).
I decided to go walking while I had Venice to myself and by 5 a.m I was ready. I was of course wearing my money belt but took only 20 Euros with me. I wore my camera bag so it couldn't be snatched if I met the wrong person in the dark.
Once out on the streets and away from the canal, where the streets are very narrow and dark, I wondered if what I was doing was wise. The streets looked deserted but I could hear footsteps in the distance and would turn a corner to see someone disappearing down an alley up ahead which I was going to pass. It was a little creepy to begin but I pressed on knowing I might never get this chance again. I was very aware of my surroundings with each step, relying on my ears as much as my eyes.
After 5 minutes of walking in the general direction of Rialto (walking parallel to the canal) I began to see people going to work and felt less insecure. They saw a tourist walking without a map. I only spoke to one person-a street cleaner. I asked him where Rialto was and he responded in rapid Italian with turn by turn directions which I luckily understood and soon found myself at the foot of the bridge.
From my room I had seen boats with lights by Rialto. These were boats making deliveries to restaurants and bars. Soon they would be joined by boats picking up the trash from the day before.
As it was after 5 a.m now the Vaparetto would be running and I decided I would take one back to St Mark's Square rather than walk. I was now on the opposite side of the canal from our hotel. I checked the timetable at the nearest Vaparetto stop and there was one due in 7 minutes. I took a couple of photos while waiting for the boat.
The Vaparettos run on time and the time of each sailing is displayed. If you miss one there will only be a ten minute wait or so.
I was the only tourist on the boat. The few other people were making their way to work. The Vaparetto has a small open deck at the bow and at the stern which is where I liked to sit and take photos and videos without windows in the way. A recorded voice over the PA will announce the stop you are approaching.
Within 15 minutes or so we were on the Guideca canal and approaching St. Mark's Square.
At this time of the morning-before 6 a.m there were few people in the Square. I saw 5 street sweepers using old fashioned brooms. Some people coming to work in the restaurants. A mother and her child out walking.
I hadn't yet had coffee and was hoping to find a cafe to fix that major problem. There aren't Starbucks coffee houses on each street corner in Venice-if there are any at all- so I had to go searching in the streets off the square.
My nose was working overtime, hoping to smell coffee in the air...
I finally found a cafe open. It was the only source of light in a very narrow dark alley but the air was full of the smell of rich, dark espresso. There was only one small table in it and two older Italian gentlemen were sitting there with a small dog at their feet. I ordered an espresso and once I had my cup of life-giving elixir I took it outside to the street and found a doorstep to sit on. A gentleman next to me was reading a local newspaper and sipping a cappuccino . He was reading by the light from the cafe. The coffee was better than anything you can buy in a Starbucks. The beans were Lavazza.
Suitably refreshed I could now head back to St Mark's as I wanted to be on the Guideca canal at dawn to see if any ships were coming in. My ship would be coming in today. She might already be here even though it wasn't yet 7 a.m.
To be continued....
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