Rome in the dark

After our first day in Rome it was time for bed around 10 p.m. Sleep was welcome.

However I woke at 4.30 and went to use the bathroom. Once I switched on the bathroom lights a light went off in my head-one of those light bulbs that you see in cartoons when someone has a bright idea. Should I go back to bed and enjoy that sleep? Or should I throw on some clothes and go out to the square to take some photos without any people in them?

I could take an afternoon nap and catch up on my sleep later, surely?

I had walked the streets of Venice at 5 a.m, camera in hand. Now it would be Rome's turn, while she slept.

Out I went, a few Euros in my money belt to buy coffee.The car you see with it's headlights on is a taxi as there is a taxi stand occupied here at all hours of the day. That might come in handy later!

All is quiet in the hotel. I said buongiorno to the night desk clerk who was surprised to see me

There was no one around except for a couple of rats out looking for a breakfast snack. I debated whether I should just stay in the square or go for a walk. Although I didn't have much money to lose I was carrying about $3000 of camera equipment that might appeal to a mugger.

I decided to walk and made my way through the narrow streets to the wide-open Piazza Navona which is a busy hub of restaurants, cafes and buskers during the day. I had it to myself.

There was only the sound of the fountains but my ears were listening for footsteps, in case I was not alone.

 I didn't have a map with me but remembered from my last year's visit that there was an
archaeological site a few streets away. The square it sits in is called Largo di Torre Argentina. The ruins were discovered during a dig in 1927.

It was here that the first signs of life appeared this morning as people stood at bus stops that would take them to work. News stands were setting out the papers for the day and delivery trucks drove by as the first cafes prepared for another day's business.

I moved on, hoping I would remember how to get to Trevi fountain or at least see a sign pointing the way. I passed a church.

 There was a narrow maze of cobbled streets to thread my way through to find Trevi. I could hear footsteps but not see who was making them. When I came to a tiny cafe with two men sitting outside sipping espresso I asked them 'Dove Trevi?" and they pointed down the street....

Just like the year before the fountain was under refurbishment and a plexiglass wall surrounded it. There was no splashing water, just construction materials. Two officers in a police car kept watch through the night.

By now I was getting hot as I was wearing a jacket to carry all my stuff in and had been walking  a lot so I headed back to our hotel to shower and dress for breakfast when service began at 7 a.m

The cafes that surround the square on 3 sides were now staffed and setting up their sun shades for the day

We were eating breakfast early for a reason- we had tickets to visit the Forum (bought online) and planned to be there early before the crowds came.....

Sunset and our first dinner in Rome

With sunset approaching it was time for me to visit my favorite place in Rome- the rooftop bar in Albergo del Senato, high above Pantheon Square.  I wasn't the only one to have this bright idea and found that there was only one empty chair near the bar.  Most of the voices I heard as I walked past each table were speaking English. A man from Florida was at the table and offered me the seat. He had just returned from a golfing cruise on a small ship. We were about to embark on a ship of over 100,000 Gross Tonnes with 3,000 passengers and 1,150 crew. I ordered a cold refreshing beer and a small bowl of olives grown on the trees that grace the deck was brought to allow me to snack.

Carol soon joined me and I gave her my seat as I was walking around taking photographs

Each sunset is different of course and so we would be returning tomorrow night when I'll show you the rooftop bar setting

Tonight there were rain clouds approaching, just as forecasted. If it rained we were going to dine close to the hotel, which doesn't have it's own restaurant. We would ask for a recommendation at the front desk, where they are always eager to help.

The church dome in the center of the photo is St Peter's Basilica.

Once the sun had set it began to rain and we went inside to dress for dinner. At the front desk, Mauro gave us his recommendation and it was a restaurant we remembered from the Rick Steves guide book. As it was drizzling rain outside he loaned us a hotel umbrella. To find the restaurant all we had to do was step out the front door of the hotel and look to our right-it was less than 100 yards away. Ideal!

It was cool and damp outside, where we normally like to sit, so we decided to eat indoors. Let's go in!

Today's fresh fish catch was the first thing that greeted us. A plate of anchovies caught my eye...

We waited in the hallway and were soon warmly welcomed. I used my best restaurant Italian to ask for a quiet table near a window.

The main dining room wasn't so quiet so instead we were led to a room with about 6 tables. People dining at the other tables were speaking English so I guess we were in the tourist dining area. Some were talking about the cruise they had just been on and others  the cruise ship they would join on Saturday.

We were hungry as we hadn't eaten for 12 hours in a city that has a restaurant every 30 feet or so.

A waiter came to take our order for drinks and brought some bread and olive oil to get us started. Note that you will be charged 3 Euros or so for the bread.

 We were dry, comfortable, about to eat well but most importantly we were in Rome. Yes we were tired from lack of sleep but that would come soon. Let's get to the food!

Carol enjoyed her glass of Prosecco while I savored my half bottle of Pinot Grigio. The first dishes arrived at the table...

For her, an artichoke

and for him, fried anchovies with a simple lemon to squeeze

This was a lot of food and we had much more coming but we were so hungry we soon had clean plates.

Pasta course for her- Caccio e Pepe-spaghetti with cheese and pepper and in this case some shaved black truffles.

While I had my favorite spaghetti dish- Spaghetti ala carbonara. Spaghetti with egg and prosciutto.

Our taste buds were singing a happy song...

The waiter poured more wine as we sat resting between courses. It was raining again outside but we still had more food to anticipate and were in no hurry to leave. Dinner is always a highlight of our day and especially so in Italy.

Salmon with the most flavorful tomatoes we had ever eaten (Carol let me try some)

and perhaps my favorite Italian dish-Veal saltimbocca with garlic mashed potato

When the waiter came to remove my plate he could see that I had enjoyed every delicious bite....

We had enjoyed and savored everything that came from that kitchen. I later wrote them a nice review on TripAdvisor. Well deserved.

Dolce? Yes, Carol wanted a dessert and ordered a tiramisu which came in a glass (unusual) while I had my favorite dessert-a glass of Sambuca Romana and an espresso.

A wonderful meal and I'd say the most enjoyable we have eaten in Italy to date. With a tip of 10 Euro or so for the waiter the bill was 130 E and worth every penny (or cent)

By the time we left the rain had stopped and the streets were almost empty of people. It was only 10 pm but we were ready for some sleep.

While we are sleeping here is a video of our evening....

The church of Sant Ignacio

Before we go into our second church I should tell you that neither of us are religious in any way but we enjoy their beauty, their calm and quiet and marvel at the passion obvious in the architects and builders and those that raised the money for such magnificence on display. That they mean even more to those we see praying and lighting candles is heartwarming.

Nearby we followed Rick Steves' advice, yet again, and visited the church of Sant Ignacio.

Come on in...

Don't forget to look UP!

We always obey the rules even if they say "no photography" (gasp!) Usually it just means being quiet and respectful and not using camera flash.

In these quiet places you can hear yourself think but once back outside the doors we will be on the bustling streets of Rome again.

We have been in Rome for about 8 hours by this time and are hungry BUT it is 6 pm and the sun will set in an hour and we don't want to have our heads down working on bowls of spaghetti when that happens so we decide to return to the hotel to watch the sunset and go to dinner at 8 pm when it is dark. Our last meal was breakfast on the airplane at 8 a.m....

Next- sunset and a superb dinner