Wednesday, May 31, 2017

A most memorable lunch

I am having a very enjoyable day indeed, here in Cinque Terre in Italy. On paper it doesn't look like much, I'll admit. I rode on a bus for almost two hours. I walked down from a parking lot through a small town to the sea. I had 4 shots of espresso and got on a boat for a 20 minute windy and damp ride to another small Italian town.

I loved every minute of it because I was in Italy (How cool is that???). I was healthy (still am) and on holiday.  I had money in my Rick Steves money-belt. The sun was shining in Monterosso and I was no longer damp. There was only one thing missing-Italian food in my stomach (which kept reminding me of that fact). That had to be rectified and luckily lunch was included in the schedule of our tour (but not in the price of our tour). The guide had arranged some capacity for our group in a couple of restaurants. We would have an hour set aside to eat.

But first we would have to get there and this is where my feet come into play. I learned to walk (starting with the standing up and then falling down technique) at a young age and at that time I remember thinking "what's the point of all this?". Many years later the reason is apparent-to get to an Italian restaurant -in Italy!

The feet moved me the short distance to the town proper from the dock.






Sadly this fountain was bone-dry and was now serving as a temporary trash-can (rubbish bin for my British readers)



Nice little place but then I am biased towards old Italian towns


There is one of the two restaurants we have a booking for


We like the look of those outdoor tables!


We sat down at a table and as soon as we did a waitress came over and told us we couldn't sit there!
Ahime! (aw shucks! for my American readers) No- our booking was for seats inside and a young waiter was summoned (Subito!) to lead us there, through a warren of rooms to a small cosy room at the rear of the restaurant. No problem. We were there to eat, first and foremost and they had a menu....


The restaurant has been in business since 1971!



 Carol's dried salted codfish (Baccala) with onions


My plate of anchovies-deep fried and so delicious.


Our small dining room. At the table next to us is two French tourists, not from our ship. I speak some French and their language is like music to my ears. I seldom get the chance to speak French but I wasn't going to practice with two complete strangers who were enjoying a private meal together. They speak too fast for me to understand every word anyway.


Branzino (Sea Bass). The waiter had already cut the tail off and would now (after I got my photo) cut off the head and it was the best Bronzino I have ever tasted. Fresh from the sea! Served with fried potatoes. We love simple Italian cooking! We only need a couple of fresh ingredients, cooked perfectly to enjoy a meal.


Carol's linguine with pesto and fresh green beans


Happiness in a bottle



There's a price to pay for food this good...


 A very enjoyable meal indeed! It would have been nice to have taken a short sleep (a nap) after it but we still had some time before we had to meet our guide again....


Tuesday, May 30, 2017

Fast boat to Monterosso

It was windy on the top deck of the ferry as we were going fast and even though I was on the upper deck sea spray was something I had to watch out for. As you'll see in the photos everyone had come clothed appropriately. I had to stand to take my photos and video and that tested my balance.


We leave Manarola behind and head West




 We were only on the water for about 20 minutes and the coldness and wetness was worth the ride knowing that we would quickly get to our lunch spot in Monterosso. I would soon forget any discomfort once I had a cold Italian beer and some fried fish on a plate in front of me. Motivation!





 Monterosso Ahoy!



The crew prepare for docking


I see a World War II gun emplacement jutting from the rock




The headland gives shelter from the wind and the sea is calm here


All ashore!



The skillful Captain



Another ferry comes in


I wait until the top deck clears before leaving



Beautiful Monterosso al Mare



Cactus! High above you can see people on a cliff walk.




We have arrived. Here is a video clip from the boat trip....


See you onshore!

Monday, May 29, 2017

Coffee!

We had come to the sea at the foot of the town of Manarola and had some time to wait before our ferry boat arrived. Our guide led those who wanted to continue seeing the town out along that path you see below but we had other ideas.


We needed to sit and have coffee and there was a cafe in this building at the top of the stairs that lead down to sea level. It had outdoor seating. Hooray! We like that and there were no people sitting there.
We chose our table and a happy Italian waitress came to take our order of two double espressos, per favore.

Within minutes other people arrived from the various tour groups which had gathered in the town soon after our arrival and there was still just the one fast and efficient smiling waitress to take care of them. There was a line of people at the door to the cafe, queuing to use the toilets. I heard one American man complain that there wasn't enough toilets. I think he may have been the same man complaining at the Ferrari rest stop. His idea was that they should build more toilets out here where we were sitting (at left), thus giving up space where they could put tables and make money. A genius!

While Carol joined the bathroom line (took 10 minutes to achieve relief) I ordered another round of double espressos as the coffee was so rich and flavorful. I used the opportunity to practice my Italian (thank you Rosetta Stone!) talking to the waitress and complimenting her on being so patient and good natured while being rushed off her feet by so many people at once. The double espressos were 4 Euro each. La Plancia was the name of the cafe with a view.







Here comes the ferry from La Spezia. It will take us to Monterosso al Mare along the coast where we will have lunch ( I am so ready to eat!) We are gathered on a narrow walkway right by the water and the 200 or so passengers on the ferry will have to walk past us before we get our turn to board. Not a great margin of safety here! It was also cool and windy down here so close to the water and we'd already stood for 20 minutes.



One last look back


We have to walk in single file when it is our turn and climb through and over some rocks. There is no jetty for the boat to rest against  so the Captain has to keep the boat motor running to stay in position for the passengers to clamber aboard on the narrow gangway.

 No one fell into the sea. Hooray! Inside the boat was filling up. We found seats without a view but Carol suggested I go up to the top deck and get my photos and video and that's what I did.

See you up there!