Thursday, July 14, 2016

Vienna streets

Vienna is one of those cities we know we'll be returning to someday-the lure will likely be some Opera performances. I don't know why it draws so many visitors other than people interested in classical music which it is rightly renowned for. It's a beautiful city to our eyes although it doesn't have iconic postcard sights as does London, Paris or Rome for example but the pace of life in the streets is more relaxed and that suits us. The famous Coffee Culture ensures that there are enough inviting cafes, indoor and outdoor, to sit at and enjoy watching the world go by. It's a city that doesn't encourage you (and I speak only for the two of us here) to rush around in a frenzy trying to see it all.

Although it's been three years since our second and currently last visit it is still vivid in my mind and each moment there was to treasure. The classic architecture, so different from Chicago, is one of the things that delights me so of course I had to get up early one morning for a picture-taking walk,even though I had a basic pocket digital camera back then. Now, armed to the teeth with a Canon DSLR camera I would probably want to wake even earlier (in Rome last September I was on the streets by 5 a.m, in the dark but of course Rome is even more photogenic than Vienna)

Being on the streets early-in this case I think it was just after 7 a.m-allows me to avoid crowds as they are still asleep following a night of drinking and dancing, while we slept. We are not Night Owls.

Here, just behind the Opera House is the Hotel Sacher on the right and in the same building the famous Cafe Mozart occupying the left corner of the building.You don't have to walk far between great coffee stops!




The interior of the Sacher Cafe, home to the famous Sacher Torte cake which we enjoyed.



Such elegant surroundings to indulge our passions for great coffee and delicious cake.


Across the street the Albertina Museum which we have yet to visit.


The quiet morning streets


The long pedestrian shopping street-the Graben. We are not shoppers.


I have the streets all to myself it seems


Clean streets to begin the day. Had it been a couple of hours later I might have met one of the small teams, usually two or three men, dressed in period costumes from the time of Mozart. They approach you (well, me at least) to entice you to enjoy some Mozart music performances for a fee-often string quartets. A polite "no thank you" or "danke nein" or in my case "I don't like Mozart" will end their pitch.



St Stephen's Cathedral



Closed to tourist visitors this early in the morning but later it will be besieged.


All the outdoor cafes are being set up for another day of brisk business. The shade umbrellas will be needed today.


The street which is home to Cafe Hawelka. We would visit it later that night. It's small dark and smoky so maybe not everyone's idea of a place to relax although it was "right up my street". We sat on very old furniture looking at walls that were stared at by penniless writers, political thinkers and philosophers  and people like me who drink good strong espresso and need an ashtray. Opened in 1939 and still going strong.


Cafe Hawelka


This city wakes up late. That's fine by me!




Buildings old...

 and new


The umbrellas on the roof tell us there is a restaurant up there. A visit there will have to wait until the "next time", whenever that might be.


After breakfast at the Opera Cafe with Carol we were back on the Graben and so were the late-risers


Two Mozart ticket sellers but they haven't seen us yet, so we tiptoe quietly around them


Our least favorite thing-crowds, but they are just doing what we are doing so I can't blame them. This is a peaceful, beautiful city to relax in.  You'll notice that none of my early photos had homeless people sleeping in doorways which is something I am used to seeing in Chicago, New York or San Francisco. I imagine they exist here but where are they? No beggars in the street. No one interrupting me at breakfast asking for a cigarette or some "spare change".


St Stephens Cathedral again







If you walk up the Graben to it's conclusion you come to the Donau-the river Danube


A sightseeing boat tour is highly recommended!



After a couple of days of world-class Opera performances, fine meals taken outdoors in good weather  
we would have to return to Munich for a day to catch our flight home.

The rental car had to be taken from the garage for one excursion before that return as we wanted to see what lay beyond the city. We chose a road trip out to Melk Abbey, a Benedictine Monastery if ever there was one. The town of Melk has stood at the feet of this mighty hill since 831 AD (before the Abbey was built of course.)


You can see the tourist buses parked which meant a lot of other people decided to visit today and there was a line to get in to the Abbey. It was such a pleasant day and there were some beautiful gardens (and places selling  refreshing beer!) that we decided to just enjoy the surroundings and skip a crowded tour. We would linger a while and then drive back to Vienna along the banks of the Danube.




There are car ferries if you want to take a short cut but that's not us. I love driving and seeing every turn in the road, which was all new to us and we were in no hurry.


We stopped outside a beautiful town called Durnstein where river cruises stop to allow their passengers to explore and buy fridge magnets. It was cooler under the trees. Atop a hill over the town stood a ruined castle where Richard the Lionheart had been imprisoned many years ago in 1192.


I am enjoying the shade and the cooling breeze from the Danube


Durnstein was so pleasing to the eye that we drove back through it to see it from the other side


And there found a statue of Richard and his sidekick minstrel Blondel playing a very early version of what would become the electric guitar.


We drove at a leisurely pace, stopping as often as we needed to for coffee or bathroom breaks before arriving back in Vienna and finding our way back to the Grand Hotel Wien for our last evening in the city. No Opera tonight, just a fine dinner outdoors at Cafe Mozart and an early night.

We had only one appointment on our last morning before driving back to Munich-a visit to the Spanish Riding School to see the Lippizaner Horses put through their paces by their skilled riders.
Alas Ciaran was no longer with us for this marvelous event as he had to return to Munich on our last night. I wasn't allowed to take photos of the performance as flash cameras would distract the horses from their obvious concentration as they and their riders put on a memorable show of skill and discipline.This is a stock photo, therefore.


And with that we've come to the end of our sojourn in Austria. I'm sorry that it has taken so long to finish it but life (i.e work and play) had got in the way recently.

I think we need another sea voyage....

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